Wednesday, 17 July 2019

10 reasons to love Ghana





Getting a bit emotional about the fact that I am leaving soon. First, I’m leaving from my hometown here, and my whole life here, and then a bit more than week later I am leaving the whole country. Can’t really even think about it, as every time I do, I get this way too intense and hollow, sad feeling, almost like physical pain. Reminds me nicely (hehe, sarcasm) of the times when I had to leave from Hong Kong, or when I had to leave from Australia. Absolutely horrible feeling, that just can’t be explained.

Anyway. So, to think about nicer things, I wanted to make a list of things I love in Ghana. There are actually millions of reasons to love Ghana, but it was a bit easier to limit the list only to 10 things.Obviously, here I am focusing on good things. Coins always has two sides, and every single thing I have listed has its negative sides too – but I don’t want to focus on them now. Maybe, on one of the days when I’m so fed up with certain things, I’ll have the right mood to write about things that are not always so perfect and nice, just to balance it out. Because, let’s be realistic here. There’s no place in the world that would be paradise all day every day, year after year. 

1. People

Ghanaians are amazing. Kind, polite, happy and always so helpful. Just today I was dragging this huge bag of water pouches, and man it’s heavy. There were some boys playing basketball close to my house, and one of them ran to me and asked if he could carry the water bag for me. This is Ghana; every time I have something heavy, or not really even heavy, just something to carry, I always get offered help. 

People are helpful in so many ways – whenever I am travelling, people around me are making sure I know where I am going and that I know how to get there. It would be absolutely impossible to get lost in Ghana. And the hospitality - people invite you over, bring you food, cook for you and want to make sure you are enjoying of your time. 
People living around me are looking after me, always ready to help me and making sure I have everything I need. I get offered a dinner, and if (from their perspective, I’m not really) I look lonely, they ask me to come over, or come to keep me company. I have this feeling of being looked after, but not too much. I feel like, if I need, there’s always someone to turn to, there’s always someone to talk to, and there is always someone to help me if I have any kind of issue.  Alone in Ghana definitely does not mean being lonely in Ghana – there’s so much love and so much caring around me, and as cliché as it sounds, I feel kinda blessed.



   2. Weather


Weather has been pretty much perfect for the past 2 and half months. We have reached the rain season, but it doesn’t really show. It sure is raining, during the night, or during the workday. Some odd days it’s raining a bit more, but never the whole day. One day it was raining for coupe hours without any break, and that has been the record so far.  Evenings after work & weekends are usually always sunny and nice, warm but not too hot. Temperature is constantly something between 27-30 degrees, which is just perfect. Not too hot, not too cold. Sometimes on a rainy day it gets a bit humid, but never crazy humid, like for example in some countries in Asia. Few weeks ago, the temperature went down, it was only +23 degrees (in the evening though), and I was freezing! Not sure how I’m planning to survive in Finland. But luckily, I still have almost 2 months to get prepare myself for that. Probably now when I have told you how amazing the weather is, it is going to be raining every single day until I leave.





   3. Food

Firstly, it is so easy to be vegetarian/pescatarian in Ghana. Every place I have been to, have options for everyone, except not sure about vegans. But anyway, it has been simple and easy, there is always either food option with fish or option that is purely vegetarian. I don’t understand what people meant when they said it might be a bit tricky to be vegetarian in Ghana – it is definitely not a problem. At least I haven’t encountered any problems, and I have been to quite remote locations and to random places. Probably it would be a bit trickier, if I wouldn’t eat fish, because that they use here a lot. 
Besides being vegetarian friendly, Ghanaian food is GOOD. Delicious. One thing I’d like it to be, would be spicier. But other than that, it is perfect. Quite heavy, oily and sometimes unhealthy, but yummy. Different kind of beans, chili, tomato sauce, onion are common ingredients in Ghanaian food. Plantain in different forms and rice (I’m so fed up with rice though) are common sides, and usually the food is just big plate with these things mixed together. 






    4. Language

      More than 80 languages and dialects are spoken in Ghana. More than EIGHTY ( 11 of them are official local languages)! Insane. One of them is British English, which makes Ghana easy country for expats to live in. Even though, the British English you’ll encounter here has nothing to do with the British English you think about. I love the way they speak English here. I thought that I’m quite good in understanding different accent, thanks to living abroad before and having friends from many different countries. But Ghanaian English is something different, and it took me good couple weeks to start to understand properly when people were talking to me. From their perspective, I was speaking way too fast and I have american accent. From my perspective, I could just not understand much of anything, especially the kids. But luckily one gets used to new accents quickly, and I think now it’s safe to say that 99% of the time I understand them and they understand me. Here are few examples of how people speak English in Ghana. I love it, it’s so different and bizarre!

 > In Ghana, when they say for example ”ask” or ”task”, it is here ”aks” or ”taks”. For     example: I was AKSING him to help me.

 > Please. Here, the word please is used A LOT. It’s polite, and that’s why used a lot in a sentences where I wouldn’t normally use it. For example: How was your day, please. Did you get home, please. Please, are you okay? Please I am fine. And so on, so shortly, lots of please. People also say thank you and sorry a lot - Ghanaians are very polite! Like my friend here, ALWAYS says thank you when he leaves my house. I never know for what, but hey no worries mate, you are welcome! 

 > Chop money. Ghanaians don’t spend money, but they chop money.

 > Sorry; here sorry is used when people are regretful that something happened to you. So they say sorry to actions that they are not responsible for. For example, I slip because I am clumsy and I don’t pay attention - the person I am with says ”I am sorry”, like its their fault I slipped. But it’s not what they mean, it’s more that they mean ”poor you”. Took me a while to get used to this!




    5. Atmosphere

What I have experienced is, that atmosphere in Ghana is so chill. ”Go with the flow”- seems to be the way of living here. There are no strict schedules, no timetables for trotros, they simple depart when the car is full. People come to work when they can, meetings happen when they do and so on. It’s almost like the concept of time doesn’t exist here - everybody’s always late, and when I say always I mean ALWAYS. Luckily I had mentally prepared myself for this, so it hasn’t been as frustrating as it could have been for a person coming from a country of schedules, timetables and where being late is just rude. Imagine organizing a workshop that should begin at 8.30am, and the last participants comes around 9.05. And that’s early, only 35 minutes late! This is why my workshop does not have set time - I make sure everything’s ready in the morning, and start when everybody’s there, simple as that. I wonder how I’m going to survive when I go back to Europe. I’m already stressing about the domestic flight I have here in Ghana - it’s a flight, meaning I really have to be at the airport on time and I guess the plane is actually going to take off according to its SCHEDULED time. Makes me anxious to think about schedules and times; here you simply can’t  ”be late” from bus(trotro), since it leaves when it leaves and the next one comes right away. 



   6. Nature

It’s sooooo beautiful here, and so versatile. I haven’t seen the Northern part of Ghana yet, but soon I will and I’m sure it is going to look different from the Western Ghana. You have seen the pictures, and especially you who follow me on instagram have seen plenty of photos and videos of nature here. Just beautiful, so green, so different than in Europe, and TASTY. I mean, those bananas I can get from the backyard, or those damn delicious cocoa pods growing at the front yard. And the fresh coconuts that are growing in the palm tree next to the cocoa tree. And the possibilities Ghana’s nature is offering; you may go surfing, hiking or for example canoeing. You can go spotting waterfalls, or elephants. You name it. It’s simply amazing!





    7. Beaches

Beaches in Ghana were a total surprise to me. I didn’t know what to expect, and I have been amazed to see beaches that are just absolutely stunning. So calm, quiet, beautiful and peaceful! I don’t know why, but I couldn’t picture a Ghanaian beach before coming here. I guess I didn’t think they could be anything special, compared to the amazing beaches I have seen on my travels around the world. But I was wrong! And you know what I mean, I think I have posted about 1 million beach photos here.. sorry.







   8. Fashion 

I heard this saying ”every road in Ghana is a fashion runway”. True, so true! Colorful fabrics, amazing dress designs, mostly everyone has their clothes made by a seamstress/tailor so everybody’s just looking great in their outfits. Ghanaian’s fashion sense is just something else. While you are sitting next to them, wearing your boring clothes, being all sweaty after a long day, Ghanaians look amazing. If I only had more space in my backpack.. I would have had so many dresses and outfits made for me. I love walking around the town and just watching ladies in their beautiful and super colorful outfits and of course their hair is always looking impeccable. Guys look nice too, but I think I see way more colorful and pretty outfits on girls than boys. Boys dress up mostly just for church!





    9. Nothing works, but then everything works.

Everything is sort of chaotic, messy and confusing, but at the same time life is so simple and straightforward here. Planning things is challenging, organizing things is challenging, anything related to timing is challenging, finding certain things is not easy, and usually things happen very slowly. But nevertheless, in the end, it all turns out well and everything works just fine. Maybe it's not the easiest and most efficient way to reach the aim, but anyway yo'll get there, it will happen, just maybe in a different way and schedule than you planned first. It's reassuring to remember, in the middle of chaos, that it (whatever it is) will work out just fine!






   10. Trotros 

Gotta love trotros. The best and cheapest way to get from place A to place B. Trotros are fun, sometimes uncomfortable, but mostly just so simple way to move around here. Using a trotro costs basically nothing, and I have always reached the destination safely, no matter if it was 10km or 70km away. And big plus for the funny texts they have on the back of trotros. Very entertaining to try to spot the funniest ones!














Elmina & Bakatue Festival


This week I took 2 days off from work to visit Elmina. Mainly, because of the Bakatue Festival which is organized every year on the first Tuesday of July, but also because I hadn’t had chance to visit Elmina yet, so I wanted to see the town and most importantly, the castle!







I really liked Elmina. It is easy to reach (as easy as Cape Coast, just get off from trotro at Elmina instead of CC). Elmina is only about 15-minute drive away from Cape Coast, so these two can also be easily visited on a same trip.  Such a cute little fishing town, with slight European vibes, due to the portuguese and dutchies who were in Elmina back in the days.






What is Bakatue Festival then? It's a celebration to mark the beginning of the fishing season. Bakatue means "draining of a lagoon" or "opening the lagoon". This festival is always celebrated on a Tuesday since it's the day to honour the sea god. My friend in Elmina also told me, that they believe that if man goes to the sea on Tuesday, he will not return. So, better stay off from the sea!
Bakatue is celebrated by the chiefs and people of Elmina. There's a parade, where the main chief and sub-chiefs of smaller areas close to Elmina are carried to the lagoon. People are either watching the parade or walking as part of the parade, and every chief has "its people" around them while he or she is being carried. 
It was such an interesting experience, and I loved it. People were so excited to see the chiefs, everybody was dressed up, and the whole Elmina had awesome festival feeling. Music, drumming, dancing.. Fun! And at the lagoon, fishermen had canoeing competitions, which was quite exciting and fun to follow. Later in the evening, there's a big party, everybody are on the streets and there are amazing music shows. Great fun, so if you end up being in Ghana in July, check it out!

The another attraction, besides the annual festival, is the Elmina Castle also known as St George Castle. Visiting Elmina castle was interesting experience. Especially since I have now been to Cape Coast Castle, it was interesting to see another castle and compare these two. If you happen to be in Ghana and you are wondering which of these two castles you should visit, I would recommend Elmina Castle. Mainly just because the tour at Elmina Castle was better and more detailed, and the castle is bigger so there’s more to see. But both are worth visiting!



The door of no return - slaves exited the castle and entered the boats to Europe through this door



I didn’t spend the night in Elmina. I booked accommodation from Ampenyi, which is about 15-minute drive from Elmina. I stayed at Ko-Sa beach resort, and I absolutely loved the place. It’s a cute resort in the middle of nowhere, right there at the beach. It’s surrounded by lush garden, and they have beautiful restaurant right next to the beach. Though the food wasn't special, but decent, I have had better red-red than this one. Rooms are bungalow-like, and they are comfy and nice, and super clean. Would love to go there again, but I am running out of time, I really have to start make decisions of what I want to do on my last weekends here!







Friday, 5 July 2019

How’s work?

The end is coming, for real! I have only 2 full weeks left at work. TWO WEEKS. I keep repeating myself, but this is just insane, how on earth I have been here over 2 months already? Every time I have lived abroad, time has gone fast. But never this fast, and its breaking my heart. Getting emotional every time I think about the fact that I have to leave this place soon.Haven’t really had much of inspiration (read: I’ve been feeling lazy) to post anything, but now I’ll share some updates from work. So this time no photos or stories about beaches and sea, but about school and teachers!


https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gY74y7sAUY9BkJG9t61auyybgxgmcso1

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10ttXVzo9oak8OsviFn4-2B-P3HdiyPUD

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TsvgYsbUUvzQvbnHeNminxctAGfx2Tve


Work has been great. I have facilitated 4 workshops so far, and I have 2 more to go. I have been working on the development report for the school, and been planning my thesis interview. I reeeaaally should start conducting them asap, but somehow I struggle with finalizing the interview questions. Soon, soon..

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IcDBCtVr0ZIDasbxPpvwIlr3L_j9FRfq


Few weeks ago I organized refreshment day for the teachers. It wasn’t all fun and games since I made teachers to work a bit in a form of a workshop and two brainstorming sessions, but tbh most of the day was about having fun and relaxing. This was the first time when these teachers spent time with each other outside the school context, or even the first time they ever had this kind of refreshment day. I was quite nervous - first of all, I organized this day on their holiday, so it was not compulsory for teachers to attend. So I wasn’t sure if anyone was actually coming. Or if anyone was going to be in time for the pre-organized bus transportation, I mean this is Ghana anyway and nobody seems to follow any kind of pre-set schedules. Secondly, I had no idea how teachers would feel to be together outside the school premises, and what they would think about the games and activities I had planned for them. 
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yyaVPlIlXx4xVizyXBk9YtvEMKqJEYLd

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yKPK3o04B_P_MEL3zOXSoO2dSMjMadlm


Turns out, I was worried for nothing. Only 2 teachers couldn’t attend, and everybody was on time. And teachers were on such a great mood, they were all taking part in the activities and they seemed to love the games we played. The day was filled with laughter and the atmosphere was just incredibly relaxed. It was amazing to watch teachers to do teamwork together, to relax at each other’s company and to have so much fun. This day made me so happy, and the best part is that teachers liked it, gave me good feedback and the school headmaster came to tell me he was very pleased of how well this thing was organized AND from now on he wants to start organizing days like this. So, hopefully, I have started a new, lovely tradition at this school. Yay!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xSLNCKM4H_xVLUYVIlYZPIUt46hg0qtG


Another nice thing that has happened was a visit to public school. I’m working at private school, which is totally different environment compared to a public school here in Ghana. I have heard so many stories about public schools in Ghana: crazy big class sizes (there may be even 80 students in one class), no books, no other teaching or learning materials and overall no money for anything ”extra. 

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vRZvmDaTd6QDusI4qE2YF8BfFyaKaZCS

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1b_YrOYWB2cUtTNW4DlGeEAFmtlYc9m8l
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1d0qh1tKOGZRvpjIqXbkYAVdSnqV5-p5D

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fxhgCg5mo4od6lpZOiLeu8s-TI3MUi0Z

The public school I got to visit was only few minutes drive from my workplace, but the difference was remarkable. No whiteboards, not even windows or doors in the classrooms. I can imagine it makes teaching quite challenging, when there’s no modern teaching and learning materials at all. Teaching ICTmust be one of the trickiest ones - try to teach how to use a computer or other digital devices from a book, to students who may have never used a computer in their life.Anyway, the visit was short but interesting. Naturally, people at the school were hoping that we would bring money or equipment with us, I sometimes feel that since I’m obroni, people see me here just as a bag of money or other resources. If they’d check my bank account they’d change their mind! 😅


Friday, 21 June 2019

Cape Coast















Cape Coast is the capital of Central Region in Ghana. It's only about 80km from Takoradi, and super easy to reach from here. Trotro-ride there takes about 1-1,5 hour and costs only 12 cedes. Went there few weeks ago, only for one night though, so didn't have chance to see that much of Cape Coast. Not that it has very long list of tourist attractions anyway. The two main things there are the University of Cape Coast, which I sadly did not have chance to visit, and then the Cape Coast Castle.

Our accommodation was on Cape Coast beach, about 5km from the "city center", or sort of center nearby the university, where all the trotros go. The accommodation location was PERFECT. We were right at the beach, right next to the castle, and the place, Orange Beach Resort, was great. Owner, or the manager, of the resort was super chill local dude, who has very kind and helpful. Rooms were very basic, clean and served their purpose. Food was great, and overall the atmosphere was awesome. So, if you are looking for affordable accommodation at Cape Coast, I'd highly recommend Orange Beach. Amazing beach views guaranteed!







Another great thing about Orange Beach is, that it's located close to Baobab House. Baobab (btw, they also have cheap accomodation!) is vegetarian/vegan restaurant, but also so much more than that. Baobab is children foundation, aiming to give children who are coming from illiterate families, and children with special needs, a good education. Besides the restaurant, Baobab has school, where they teach children traditional arts, and the school is inclusive, meaning that they also have students with for example physical disabilities. Some of the students work at the Baobab house restaurant, and they also have a shop at the restaurant where they sell products the students have made, bought cute stuff from there, such as pouches made out of water bags, great way to reuse those horrible plastic bags. Food was really good at Baobab, as well their smoothies and coffee. So so good. Sadly, they did not have the "black bread", which is in my understanding, similar to rye bread. Would have loved to have some, so I guess I have to go back! By the way, I have never ever in my life had as good tofu as at Baobab house, absolutely delicious. 







Cape Coast castle was impressive experience. The castle itself is very beautiful, on a very beautiful spot facing the sea. It's crazy how something so beautiful can be so appalling! The basement, where they kept the slaves, were horrifying. Living conditions have been absolutely horrible for the slaves, and awful things have been happening in that castle. It was so weird to walk around there now, knowing that all those horrifying things have been happening there. The castle was built by the Swedes (haha!), but originally for trade of timber and gold, and later on it was used for transatlantic slave trade. This castle, and its dark, grim and disgusting basements were the last thing slaves experienced in their home country before being shipped off to Atlantic and to their new home country. Cape Coast castle is just one of the forty (?) slave castles built on the Gold Coast. 
I would also love to see the Elmina castle, which I have heard is bigger than the Cape Coast castle. Hopefully, I get to go to Elmina (which is right next to Cape Coast), in few weeks!